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Baracoa

Cuba

Caribbean shoestring ~$40/day
How to get there

Fly to Havana or Holguín, then the long road over La Farola — the mountain highway that ended Baracoa's 450 years of isolation only in 1965.

Where to sleep

A casa particular — a family home — which in Baracoa means cocoa farms, chocolate, and grandmother's cooking.

What to expect

Cuba's first city and its most cut-off: chocolate and coconut cuisine unlike anywhere else on the island, the flat-topped El Yunque mountain Columbus described, rivers pouring out of rainforest.

First move on arrival

Hike El Yunque with a local guide, swim in the Duaba river on the descent, then eat lechita — fish in coconut sauce — at your casa.

When to go

December to April

One phrase to carry

¿Qué bolá? — the Cuban what's up.

Read before you go

Trading with the Enemy by Tom Miller — the best gringo-in-Cuba travel book written.

Getting weirder nearby

Humboldt National Park — the Caribbean's most biodiverse corner, an hour up the coast.

One honest warning

US citizens travel under specific license categories with documentation requirements — know the current rules before booking, and bring every cent in cash; US cards do not work.

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