the globe says
Guinea-Bissau
Fly to Bissau via Lisbon or Dakar, then a slow public canoe or chartered boat into the archipelago.
Simple island lodges on Bubaque or Orango; some islands allow no overnight visitors at all.
Eighty-eight islands run by matriarchal animist societies, saltwater hippos swimming in the sea, sacred islands closed to outsiders, and an Atlantic Africa tourism never found.
Boat to Orango to look for the hippos in the mangrove channels — with a local guide, at respectful distance.
November to May
Kuma ku bo sta — how are you, in Guinea-Bissau Creole.
Travels in the Interior of Africa by Mungo Park — the ur-text of West African wandering.
The Saltinho waterfalls upcountry, if you have days to spare on mainland roads.
Logistics are genuinely hard: boats are weather-bound and infrequent, and there is no rescue infrastructure. This is expedition-grade West Africa.