the globe says
Peru
Fly Lima to Jaén or Tarapoto, then hours of winding cloud-forest roads into the northern Andes.
A colonial courtyard hotel in Chachapoyas town; village lodges near the ruins.
The 'Cloud Warrior' civilization the Incas barely conquered: Kuélap, a mountaintop fortress with more stone than the Great Pyramid, sarcophagi standing in cliff faces, and Gocta — one of the world's tallest waterfalls, unknown to maps until 2005.
Hike to Gocta falls from Cocachimba village, then take a day for the Karajía sarcophagi staring out from their ledge.
May to September
Gracias, caserito — thanks, with the northern warmth.
The Conquest of the Incas by John Hemming — with the Chachapoya as the resistance nobody remembers.
The Leymebamba museum's 200 cliff mummies, at the end of a spectacular mountain road.
Kuélap's cable car has had closures — check its status, and be ready for the old horse trail, which is honestly better anyway.