the globe says
Mauritania
Fly to Nouakchott via Casablanca or Paris, then a shared 4x4 across the desert to Atar and on to the oasis. Or ride the legendary iron-ore train — free, brutal, unforgettable.
A family auberge inside the old town — mattress on a roof under more stars than you have ever seen.
A seventh-century Saharan trading city with medieval manuscript libraries still kept by the founding families, dunes swallowing streets, and total silence at night.
Ask for the Habott library and let the custodian show you Qur'ans and astronomy texts older than most countries.
November to February
Es-salamu alaykum — peace be upon you; the door-opener everywhere.
Sahara Unveiled by William Langewiesche — the desert without romance, which makes it more romantic.
The Zouérat iron-ore train — ride it open-wagon to the coast if you want the full legend.
Check current advisories for eastern Mauritania; the Atar–Chinguetti corridor is the established safe route. Carry cash — there are no ATMs in the desert.