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Pakistan
Fly to Islamabad, then either the spectacular one-hour flight to Gilgit or the two-day drive up the Karakoram Highway itself.
A family guesthouse in Karimabad with Rakaposhi filling the window.
The valley that inspired Shangri-La: 7,000-meter peaks on all sides, apricot orchards, ancient forts, near-universal literacy, and the most disarming hospitality in Asia.
Walk up to Baltit Fort at first light, then drink Hunza water — the local mulberry spirit — only if your host insists.
April for blossoms, October for gold poplars
Shukriya — thank you, in Urdu; the valley speaks Burushaski, a language related to nothing.
Where the Indus is Young by Dervla Murphy — winter in these gorges with a mule and a child.
Passu's cathedral ridge and the terrifying, wonderful suspension bridges upvalley.
Northern Pakistan is far safer than headlines suggest, but check current advisories and fly rather than drive if the KKH weather turns.