the globe says
Tanzania
Fly or take the old Central Line railway from Dar es Salaam to Lake Tanganyika's Tanzanian shore.
A lakefront guesthouse in Kigoma; a berth on the ferry when she sails.
The MV Liemba — a German WWI warship scuttled, raised, and still serving as a ferry a century later — plus Gombe Stream, where Jane Goodall's chimpanzees still live in the hills.
Take the boat up to Gombe and sit quietly while a chimpanzee decides you are boring — the correct outcome.
May to October
Karibu — welcome; Swahili's warmest word.
Mimi and Toutou Go Forth by Giles Foden — the absurd true naval war on this exact lake.
Mahale Mountains down the lake — chimpanzees on beaches, reachable only by boat.
The Liemba's schedule is aspirational — confirm locally and build a week of slack around any sailing.