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Kuching

Malaysia

Southeast Asia shoestring ~$35/day
How to get there

Fly into Kuala Lumpur, then a cheap two-hour hop across the South China Sea to Sarawak, Borneo.

Where to sleep

A riverside guesthouse in the old town along the Sarawak River.

What to expect

Borneo's most livable city and the doorway to its interior: semi-wild orangutans, Iban longhouses up the Batang Ai, laksa for breakfast, and a river that still carries the trade.

First move on arrival

Cross the river on a penambang boat at dusk, then eat at Top Spot — a seafood court on a parking garage roof.

When to go

June to August

One phrase to carry

Terima kasih — thank you, in Malay.

Read before you go

Into the Heart of Borneo by Redmond O'Hanlon — the funniest serious jungle book ever written.

Getting weirder nearby

Bako National Park, an hour by bus and boat — proboscis monkeys and pitcher plants on sea cliffs.

One honest warning

The real interior — upriver longhouse country — takes days each way; budget a week beyond the city or you have only seen the lobby.

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