the globe says
Comoros
Fly via Addis Ababa or Nairobi to the islands nobody can place on a map.
A medina guesthouse below the Friday mosque, ylang-ylang on the evening air.
A Swahili-Arab-French island nation of coups and perfume plantations: an active volcano, coelacanths in the deep water offshore, and a capital that smells of cloves.
Climb Karthala — one of the world's largest active craters — with a guide, overnighting on the caldera rim.
May to October
Marahaba — thank you, in Shikomori.
A Girl Called Eel by Ali Zamir — Comorian fiction in one breathless sentence.
Mohéli's marine park — turtles nesting on beaches with no one watching but you.
Inter-island boats have a poor safety record — fly between islands, and treat schedules as folklore.