the globe says
Nicaragua
Fly to Managua, bus to San Jorge, then the ferry toward two volcanoes rising out of a freshwater sea.
A farm hostel between the volcanoes — hammocks, howler monkeys, home cooking.
An island formed by twin volcanoes in Lake Nicaragua: petroglyphs in the pastures, kayaking through wetland channels, and a slow rural rhythm tourism forgot.
Kayak the Istián river between the volcanoes at dawn — caimans, herons, and glass-flat water.
November to April
Con gusto — with pleasure, the Nicaraguan reply to thanks.
Blood of Brothers by Stephen Kinzer — Nicaragua's revolutions, firsthand.
Granada's crumbling grandeur and the Masaya volcano's lava glow, back on the mainland.
Climbing Concepción is a brutal, loose-scree slog — hire a local guide and start before dawn, or choose gentler Maderas.