the globe says
Albania
Fly to Tirana, bus to Shkodër, then a 4x4 shuttle over the pass into the Accursed Mountains.
A stone farmhouse guesthouse — dinner is whatever the family grew, and it is superb.
Alpine Albania: a lock-in tower from the blood-feud era, the Blue Eye spring, and the day hike over the Valbona pass that is quietly one of Europe's best walks.
Walk Theth to Valbona over the pass — guesthouse to guesthouse, mules carry bags, shepherds sell raspberry juice at the top.
June to September
Faleminderit — thank you, in Albanian.
Broken April by Ismail Kadare — the blood-feud code these towers were built for.
Lake Koman's ferry — a fjord-like reservoir ride locals call Europe's best boat trip.
The season is short — outside June to September the pass holds snow and the shuttles stop.