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Tiraspol

Transnistria

Europe shoestring ~$30/day
How to get there

Fly to Chișinău, Moldova, then a rattling marshrutka across a border that officially is not one, into a country that officially is not one.

Where to sleep

A Soviet-era hotel or a homestay booked through local hosts.

What to expect

The USSR preserved in amber: Lenin statues, hammer-and-sickle flags, a state cognac distillery, Sheriff — the company that owns everything — and surreal ordinary life.

First move on arrival

Tour the Kvint cognac distillery, then walk the embankment at dusk with an ice cream like everyone else in the republic.

When to go

May to September

One phrase to carry

Spasibo — thank you; Russian is the lingua franca.

Read before you go

In Europe's Shadow by Robert D. Kaplan — Romania, Moldova, and the ghosts between.

Getting weirder nearby

Bender fortress on the river, and Chișinău's vast wine cellars back across the 'border.'

One honest warning

Register your stay as required, carry euros or Moldovan lei to change, and monitor the regional situation before going — this one is sensitive to events in Ukraine.

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